Ok, have been on the road the last few days. Had myself a horror 24 hour train ride from Brasil to Santa Cruz in Bolivia. Longest story of hell and missed connections. But to sum it up in a few words,
Bolivian transport is one of the most disorganised in the modern world.My 17 hour overnight train trip turned into 24 hours of crappy, crowded hell, as delay after delay and after delay ensued. I have nevery seen a train move off the rails this much in my life, and there were serveral moments when I really thought we would rock to the side just a little too far. At every stop the train would pull into to a very derelict-looking station where our carriages were mobbed by groups of 10-15 children and their parents, yelling at the top of their lungs and selling all sorts of food stuff at ridiculouse prices. This was all fine for the first half of the train ride during the day, but these kids would come on at 11 - 12 at night when the entire carriage was sleeping. If only I had a baseball bat...
So, I arrived in Santa Cruz, tired, cold, and with a mammoth craving for beer. Had an overnight stay here before embarking on a much more comfortable bus ride into La Paz.
I am here now, the highest capital city in the world, nearly 4 kilometers above sea level and ready to see what this country has got to offer.
First impressions: city looks amazing. Very very beautiful. Temperature is fittingly cold, and Ive already unpacked my snowboard thermals and balaclava. There is a fantastic vibe about the place and a strong backpacker community. The streets are teeming with people, markets, contraband and cheap cheap cheap food!! Colourful jeeps (similar to those jeepnes in Asia and the Philippines) cane it through the streets picking up passengers dropping htem off at every possible location. European buildings dot the central squares while the towering snow-capped spires of the Cordilerra Real Andes look on from the far horizon. The city is set in a huge valley, with houses clinging and falling off its rim. Truly an amazing setting.
Bolivian food is pretty mundane. Just crap meat, potatoes, salad and more potatoes. But for the price you pay, I am not complaining. There are however, decent asian restaraunts and I have been stocking up on my spicy foods and herby meals after six months of pretty much going without. For all its crappiness, I will give this to Bolivian food, their empanadas kick shit all over brazilian pastels.
Altitude sickness became a slight problem for me and I rode into La Paz with a mild head ache which turned into a level 3 earthquake later in the night. Have spent the last two days aclimatizing to the high altitude weather drinking lots of water and staying away from beer and cigarettes.
Bolivian people are nice. Their indigenous lineage can be seen in their faces and their clothing. Babies hang securly from colourful, alpaca-made slings which the women carry on their backs. Hair is drawn into two long plaited pig tails and tied together at their ends.
Well, words can only do so much so will send fotos pretty soon.
Plans for the next few days: am off to throw myself and my mountain bike down the
World's most Dangerous Road (and get my free touristy T-shirt =), doing a one day trek through the Colca Canyon tomorrow followed by a little outing to Lake Titicaca for three days and treking amongst its Inca ruins.
Worthy information of note:
Accomodation: 20 bolivianos
Huge huge meal in nice restaraunt with drinks: 15 bolivianos
1 AUSD = 6 Bolivianos
1USD = 8 Bolivianos
1 Euro = 10 Bolivianos
1 Pound = 15 bolivianos
